Writing about the roads of South River and surrounding townships can be a humbling experience as one realizes the decades of human involvement that has gone before this new Millennium. The extraordinary beauty of an autumn landscape, the serenity of freshly fallen snow on the surrounding countryside, the delectable murmurs of a rippling stream in spring followed by the lazy days of summer warmth in settings that in many areas still boast the unspoiled natural beauty of the area leaves one with a deep uncompromising passion for the land.
The journey that first led the early pioneers to this part of Ontario began from Rosseau, northward along the Nipissing Road and into Lount Township. Surveyed in 1865 by J.S. Dennis, Provincial Land Surveyor, the Nipissing Road was completed by 1875. The intent of the Rosseau-Nipissing Road, (named because it created a 69 mile link between Lake Rosseau and Lake Nipissing) was to settle the then virgin territory of central Parry Sound District. Free Grant Land was available for the many pioneers of German and Swiss descent who were encouraged to settle in the area and by 1880 small communities were being formed.
Follow along as "Country Roads" takes you through years of history and important land marks that deserve remembering, through Lount and Machar Townships and into the village of South River.
Wattenwyl
As you journey along the picturesque country roads of Wattenwyl in the township of Lount, relive the struggles of settlers from many diverse backgrounds who once resided there. Wattenwyl, once a very populated area because of its proximity to the Nipissing Road boasted a school, post office, store and two churches. Today two cemeteries are frequently visited by descendants of those buried there. They are the Wattenwyl Evangelical United Brethren Cemetery and the Zion Lutheran Cemetery.
Wattenwyl is said to be so named because of the German translation meaning "Wait for me a while". Evidently the mail came into the post office at the Fredrick Egger farm and usually the youth of the settlement were sent to wait for its arrival. Many a romance was generated from the wait for incoming mail and so the name also has some romantic undertones. Today the Eggers of Dunneville, Ontario call their establishment Wattenwyl and grandpa, Ernie Egger, at the age of 96 retrieves the mail daily from the mailbox in a bag inscribed with Wattenwyl. In the canton of Bern, Switzerland, one is able to locate a place named Wattenwyl no doubt brought to this country by the many Swiss settlers in Lount.
The scenic shores of Deer Lake entice many a summer visitor as well as several permanent residents who enjoy the quiet solitude of country life in Wattenwyl. Sawmills were located on the shores of this lake and many local men were employed there.
The Egger family had a mill on the south shore while Charlie Quirt built one on the north shore. Later W.G. Tough purchased this mill and operated it there until he moved on to Spring Lake and later to Pickerel Lake.
The S.S. #2 Lount School was built around 1890 on Lot 10, Concession 3. Constructed of logs and sided with red tin it soon became known as the "little red schoolhouse". In 1919 a new school was built of stone not far down the road from the previous building. It had a blind side with windows on the south only and today it is kept in good repair with well-groomed grounds.
Although many of the original log buildings have collapsed or been torn down, today as one winds their way through the roads of Wattenwyl they can be assured of seeing modern, well-kept dwellings located in the community that once boasted many farms. Rail fences and a windmill still stand to remind us of our heritage.
Mecunoma
A few kilometres along the road from Wattenwyl one arrives at Mecunoma. This settlement was located 14 miles west of South River, approximately 12 miles north of Magnetawan, along the Nipissing Road and in Lount Township.
A tale has been passed down through generations telling of Robert Galbraith, one of the early settlers who cut a path to locate his cabin, hearing Native people nearby shouting, "Mecunoma, Mecunoma". When asked what the words meant the Native people replied, "We have found a road." The road was the Rosseau-Nipissing Road.
Much history has derived from this location. When Galbraith was appointed as Post Master a few years later, he named the place Mecunoma. Although no dates are available for this occurrence it is felt that this took place well before the 1880’s since Galbraith’s son Edward is listed in the 1881 Census.
Around 1863, Alfred Russell and a friend, Dick Mannering moved to Mecunoma to do some trapping. The two had immigrated to Canada from England and Russell was employed at first as a carpenter building the first frame building in York (now Toronto). Next he was employed as a bridge construction worker for the railroad, assisted by Mannering. The Depression resulted in loss of employment and the pair moved north along the Nipissing Road where they pitched a tent at Mecunoma. At the time there was just a clearing in the bush where folks would camp on their way to Lake Nipissing. Dick Mannering did little other than some trapping and soon became known as "Dick the Bummer". One day he wrote his name in charcoal on a shingle and tacked it to a tree. From this was derived the name "Bummers’ Roost" which is well known yet today.
In 1865, Alfred Russell built a hotel and had it licensed as the "Russell House" but the name Bummers’ Roost stuck fast in the memories of those who passed through. Traffic by this location was steady and it became a great place to stop for a good home-cooked meal, socialization, relaxation and fine sleeping accommodation.
In 1883-84, Alfred Russell returned to England and brought back Maria Henley whom he later married. It is said that the couple walked 12 miles from the Bummers’ Roost to Magnetawan to be married and then walked home the same day.
Unfortunately, Maria lost her life when the original hotel burned in 1926. A small cabin was erected as temporary accommodation until a larger frame dwelling could be built. Today the two story white clapboard house is inhabited and remains a landmark reflecting the history of those gone before.
Built at Mecanoma by Alfred Russell, this frame structure was the original "Russell House" and later became known as "The Bummers' Roost".
The Rye Settlement
Follow along the Nipissing Road northward through wooded hills to Rye, a settlement that once boasted a post office, general store, school, church and it has been reported as many as four hotels. The majority of the people who settled in Rye were of German descent and spoke no English. As they became integrated with English speaking pioneers their communication skills grew to encompass both languages.
Around 1884 the people of Rye decided to build a log school numbered as S.S.# 1 Lount. The Maw family was said to have initiated the plan and Alfred Russell was one of the builders. Twelve double desks and a teacher’s desk were donated by Mrs. Rye of Strong Township. Thus, the name, Rye School was born and eventually the community took on the name as well. Others say that Rye got its name from a community in England.
In 1914 the original Rye School was replaced by a frame structure that stands yet to-day on Lot 146, Concession A. Students attended from Mecunoma as well as the Rye community and in 1893 the enrolment had risen to twenty-six students.
Slightly north of the school and on the same lot, the Rye Cemetery is located. William Parks was buried there in 1893 and Laudewic Haufschield in 1899. They are some of the earliest burials recorded.
The first post office was at the home of William Haufschield on Lot 152, Con. A. In later years the post office was at the Brunner home until its closure in the late 1950’s.
The Rye Evangelical Church was located farther northward and families attending were the McLarens, Phippens, Brunners, Zinkies, Whites and Dettas. Early records indicate that Rev. James Geddes was one of the first ministers who travelled the Nipissing Road to minister to the people of the South River, Eagle Lake, Rye and Commanda charges (1889-1891). Other ministers were: Mr. Peaves, Mr. Wright, Rev. Milton Whittick and Rev. Ernest.
Prospectors attempted to discover minerals in the Rye area in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s. One of the largest finds of mica was located near the Rye School but the sheets of mica, used for windows were not large enough to sustain the operation and soon the site was forgotten.
Remnants of log buildings, the Rye school, a weathered windmill and a partially restored hotel can be observed as one follows the Forgotten Trails of Rye in this millennium. A scenic tour is well worth while and this August 01, 2000 is an excellent opportunity to get caught up in the history of past decades when the Trans Canada Trails’ Relay passes through the area.
Rye School, SS#1 Lount
The second school 1953
Early Transportation
Settlers arrived in the area by several different routes and methods of transportation. Etienne Brule was the first known white explorer in East Parry Sound in 1610. He was later followed by Samuel de Champlain in 1615. These explorers utilized the water systems and accounts of their journeys can be found in many history books.
Fur Traders who followed the explorers in the late 1600’s made use of the Champlain Trail and followed the South River into the townships. The Native people had established a route from Georgian Bay by means of the Magnetawan River, the Distress River , Eagle Lake, King Lake, Commanda Creek, Lake Commanda, Lake Restoule to the French River and Lake Nipissing. Many portages were necessary along the route and so canoes were the method used for navigating these water systems.
Once the Nipissing Road was built northward through Lount by the White Pine Lumber Company, settlers followed and many footpaths led off to areas that were becoming settled. It became necessary to build roads passable for team and wagon to draw in supplies. As a result, prior to 1876, another colonization road running to the west was built and first named the Great Northern Road. Construction equipment consisted only of axes and so all trees were cut into short lengths and rolled off the road. Men worked long hours downing the trees and were paid ten dollars per month in script that could be used for groceries at the Magnetawan store. The endless hard labour, low payment for wages and the lack of equipment resulted in this road being named the "Poor Man’s Road". Today the name is still used by those familiar with the area.
The arrival of the Grand Trunk Railway in 1886 had an extraordinary impact on local communities and played a key role in the development of the entire North Parry Sound District.As the railroad crossed the heart of the great northern wilderness and wound its way through Machar Township, the community of South River sprang up near the river.
The Jerusalem Road
As the major colonization roads passed through an area, there were often connector roads built between them, forming long, loose grid patterns across the townships. One such road was the twelfth concession line across Machar and Lount Townships, and connected the Rosseau-Nipissing and the Muskoka Roads. Another road branched off from the Twelfth Concession Road, cutting the corner and joining with the Muskoka Road farther north. This was an unusual road because it did not follow the customary pattern of running along a lot or concession line.
The road was called the Jerusalem Road and was built in 1877-78. People settled along this short-cut between the Rosseau-Nippissing and Muskoka Roads, creating a community known as Mandeville. A majority of the road maintenance done in this area was under the guidance of John Bumstead. He and Charles Strood were the Mandeville Pathmasters in 1900.
It is possible that Jerusalem road was thus named because of the strong religious beliefs of the early pioneers as another road not far away was named the Jericho Road.
(Written by Marion Morris)
